Liwonde is the park most visitors to Malawi see first, and the one that changes their mind about what Malawi holds. It runs along the Shire River, the only river flowing out of Lake Malawi, and the water is what makes it: elephant come down to drink in the late afternoon, hippo pods sit in the shallows all day, and crocodile line the sandbanks.
The park has been managed by African Parks since 2015. Black rhino are here, cheetah were reintroduced in 2017 and lion the year after, so a park that was once quietly emptying now holds predators again. It is small enough — around 550 square kilometres — that two days is genuinely enough to see it properly.
What sets Liwonde apart from bigger East African parks is the boat safari. Going out on the Shire at first light, at eye level with hippo and with elephant coming down through the borassus palms, is the thing guests talk about afterwards.
Best time to visit Liwonde National Park
May to October
The dry season concentrates animals along the river, and the thinner bush makes them far easier to see. September and October are hottest and best for game viewing. From November to April the park is green and the birdlife is exceptional — over 400 species — but the grass is high and sightings are harder.
Getting there
About four hours by road from Lilongwe and two and a half from Blantyre. We collect you from either airport and drive; there is no scheduled public transport that reaches the gate.